How to visit the magical Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia, full of fairytale waterfalls, boardwalks and beautifully blue-green lakes.
There are photos and video of the Plitvice Lakes all over Instagram, and rightly so. The largest national park in Croatia is home to a series of gorgeous turquoise lakes, an uncountable number of waterfalls and charmingly winding wooden boardwalks for the 1 million+ tourists who visit every year.
How to get to the Plitvice Lakes
Plitvice is in the centre of Croatia, around two hours from both the capital, Zagreb and the coast at Zadar. The most convenient way to get there is by car, but you can also take a coach from Zagreb or the coast, or take a guided tour from Zagreb, Zadar or Split (although if you’re staying near Split, you may prefer to visit Krka National Park which is significantly closer).
We arrived at Plitvice on a coach from Zagreb. There are several services each day and the journey takes around 2 hours (after our visit to the lakes we carried on to the coast at Zadar – about another 2 hours).
We got off at Entrance 2, and headed to our hotel, the Hotel Plitvice, which is one of only three hotels in the park, all clustered around Entrance 2. The Hotel Plitvice is going through a refurbishment at the moment – I hope it doesn’t lose too much of its retro Yugo charm!
Many people visiting the Plitvice Lakes only come for a day trip but I wanted to be at the park gates for opening time, so I stayed at the Hotel Plitvice for two nights. You can either book a one day ticket or a two day ticket for the park, and I’d arrived too late to make a two day ticket worthwhile so I enjoyed the views from my balcony and explored the grounds around the hotel.
Walking down a quiet path near the hotel, I came to an abandoned building. For such a beautiful place the Plitvice Lakes has a turbulent history; in 1991 it was the scene of the first armed clash of the Croatian War of Independence, and for much of the war and afterwards the area was heavily mined and the hotels used as barracks.
The next morning I got to the ticket office at Entrance 2 as it opened, although if I visited again it’s best to book tickets online to be certain of getting in.
Things to see at the Plitvice Lakes
The best way to see the lakes is to walk a circular route which includes the lovely boardwalks, waterfalls and a boat journey across one of the lakes.
The first stage is to take a shuttle bus up to the upper lakes and the start of the main trail. The first lake is wide and flat (and full of pesky midges) but it’s not long before the waterfalls start.
The first waterfalls are small ones which tumble over rocks and under the wooden boardwalks.
Then they get bigger and you really start to feel like you’re in some kind of watery version of heaven.
About halfway through the park, the path stops and you get to see the turquoise water from a boat as you cross Kozjak Lake, the largest in the park.
When you get off the boat, there’s a little, wooded camp with a kiosk selling sandwiches and drinks. We stopped there for something to eat and to relax in the sunshine.
What we’d seen so far was incredible, but the next part was truly awesome. The water got even brighter, clearer and more turquoise, and the waterfalls more abundant. Everywhere we looked, there was a waterfall.
And then they got really big; at one point water was pouring into a deep hole in a 360 degree torrent. We’d been following signs for the Big Waterfall and thought this must be it, but no, the path carried on…
From the Big Waterfall we followed the trail signs to the next camp. It took us back the way we’d came, and then up a steep path through the rock.
And at the top, we saw this beautiful sight, straight off a postcard. The wooden boardwalk curving across a turquoise lake, with little waterfalls flowing right under it.
I’ve been to some beautiful places, but the Plitvice Lakes just defy description. Any superlative you can imagine just doesn’t do them justice. It was a full sensory experience – warm sun, a gentle breeze, nice food and Croatian beer at our lunch stop and at every turn incredible views and the sound of waterfalls.
When to visit the Plitvice Lakes
I visited the Plitvice Lakes in mid-May. We had beautiful warm but not too hot weather for the first part of our Croatia trip, so our day in Zagreb, the travel day from Zagreb to Plitvice and our day in the Plitvice Lakes National Park were all lovely. Unfortunately the heavens opened the day we left Plitvice to travel to Zadar, and we had heavy rain the whole time in Zadar. I think we were just unlucky, and I’d still recommend May as a great time to visit the Plitvice Lakes.
Here’s a summary of what you can expect during each season.
Spring (March to May)
Spring is a lovely time to visit the Plitvice Lakes National Park as the waterfalls are usually at their fullest, fed by melting snow and spring rain. The trees are starting to turn green and wildflowers appear, especially from late April onwards.
Weather
March: 4 to 12 °C (39 to 54 °F) – still chilly, with occasional snow or frost.
April: 7 to 16 °C (45 to 61 °F) – mild days, cold nights.
May: 11 to 21 °C (52 to 70 °F) – pleasant for walking, with more sunshine.
Crowds
March and early April are quiet, with fewer tour groups. By late May, visitor numbers rise as the weather improves.
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Closures
Upper lakes can be closed until mid- to late-April if paths are icy or flooded. Shuttle buses and boats usually start operating fully in April, depending on conditions.
Summer (June to August)
Summer brings warm weather and long days. The lakes shimmer in bright turquoise, and all the trails are open. This is peak tourist season with lots of people visiting on tours from the coast, so expect queues for boats and viewpoints.
Weather
June: 14 to 25 °C (57 to 77 °F) – warm and comfortable.
July and August: 16 to 27 °C (61 to 81 °F) – often hot in the sun, occasional thunderstorms.
Crowds
Very busy. Tour buses and large groups arrive from Zagreb, Zadar, and Split. To avoid the worst crowds, stay overnight near the park so you can start your visit when the park opens.
Closures
Everything is open, but boat and shuttle waits can be long in high season.
Autumn (September to November)
Autumn offers colourful foliage and fewer visitors, particularly from mid-October onwards. Early autumn can still be warm, but later months bring misty mornings and a peaceful atmosphere as the summer visitors disappear.
Weather
September: 13 to 22 °C (55 to 72 °F) – mild, with cooler nights.
October: 8 to 16 °C (46 to 61 °F) – crisp and fresh.
November: 4 to 10 °C (39 to 50 °F) – can feel wintry, with rain more likely.
Crowds
September is moderately busy, but quieter than summer. By late October, the park is calm, with fewer services running.
Closures
Upper lakes may close from late October if conditions are unsafe. Shuttle buses and boats operate on a reduced schedule from November.
Winter (December to February)
Winter transforms the park into a snowy, icy landscape. Frozen waterfalls and quiet trails create a magical scene, but facilities are limited and parts of the park are closed.
Weather
December: −1 to 6 °C (30 to 43 °F) – frequent frost, occasional snow.
January and February: −3 to 5 °C (27 to 41 °F) – coldest months, heavy snow possible.
Crowds
Very few visitors, so you’ll have space to yourself. The trade-off is limited access.
Closures
The upper lake trails are closed in winter. Only the lower lakes are accessible, and there’s no shuttle bus or boat service. Some paths may be slippery or blocked by snow.
Accessibility at the Plitvice Lakes
The walk I did from the upper lakes to the lower lakes was wonderful, but it was also nearly 9km. If you, or someone you’re travelling with can’t walk that far, you can still experience the lakes thanks to some accessibility improvements the park authorities have made recently.
If you arrive at Entrance 1, you can take a 100m accessible path to a viewpoint over the Great Waterfall and the Sastavci waterfalls.
For a longer visit, you can arrive at Entrance 2 and take the path to the Flora auxiliary entrance and then the access road towards the P1 boat dock for an electric boat ride on Kozjak Lake. The boat crew can help you board.
The Jezero Hotel near Entrance 2 has accessible rooms. All the official car parks have disabled parking spaces.
Would you like to visit the Plitvice Lakes?
This place looks heavenly! Heard of Plitvice Lakes National Park but I haven’t been to Croatia yet. One more beautiful place added to my travel bucket list. Did you see some wildlife too?
Thank you for this post. It sounds a fantastic place to visit and we have booked to go this summer.
Thank you! I hope you have an amazing and magical time on your trip.
Krka National Park is almost as wonderful and not so crowded. It can be easily reached from Spilt on a day trip. I did both in April when the water was in torrents from spring snow melts but the greenery was subdued so my photos are not so dramatic. Walkways and bridges as well as boats in both parks make the falls so accessible. I’m a waterfall lover so I was in heaven!
That sounds gorgeous, I’ve heard that you can swim in the waterfalls there too? It’s definitely on my list, I think I’ll be back to Croatia before too long 🙂
Beautiful post, Helen. Great photo’s too. I was in Dubrovnik very briefly two years ago and fell in love with the beauty of the old town. I am longing to return one of these days – thank you for reawakening my interest. I hope you will come by to visit my travel blog sometime, it would be nice to see you there :). Your friend in travel, Deb
I am going there in September. Thanks for sharing it!
Hope you have an amazing time!
This looks absolutely amazing ! There is so much more to explore and it seems to be a wonderful place to relax as well. II put Croatia on my bucket list 🙂
Croatia is amazing – so many different places to see. Krka National Park is supposed to be awesome as well 🙂
Stunning photography. Croatia is very high on my list and I’d not heard of Plitvice. Looks gorgeous!
Thank you! It’s very easy to take pictures of because it looks exactly like this in real life!
Looks so therapeutic! Thanks for sharing the details!
It is, so beautiful and so refreshing to hear the water all around you.
wow, this looks unreal!!! I would love to go here! thanks so much for sharing!
I hope you get to go!
Your photos fueled my desire to visit Plitvice. Save this for inspiration.
Thank you! I hope you get there soon 🙂
This look gorgeous! I’ve been drooling over these falls for years and I’m finally getting to Croatia in a few months, to stumble upon this now was perfect. Sounds like a good idea to stay near the falls so you can make the most of it. 🙂
I think so, we didn’t have a car and most of the other accommodation wasn’t walking distance from the park. We really liked the Hotel Plitvice but we did have to book quite a long time in advance. I hope you have an awesome time in Croatia, the whole country is amazing!
Croatia is just incredible. It looks like a fairy tale! I’ve been to Dubrovnik but Plitvice Lakes are on my bucket list!
Dubrovnik is beautiful, I want to go to the Istrian part of Croatia next 🙂
These are so picturesque! Love it!
Thank you!
We went last year and totally loved it! We drove up from Dubrovnik and I just really enjoyed Croatia as a country!
Oh wow that sounds like a dream road trip! Did you come via Split and Zadar? Is there anywhere else you’d recommend?
Plitvice Lakes is most definitely on my wanderlust wishlist! I have wanted to go to Croatia for the longest time and your post definitely makes me want to go even more. Such a beautiful place and looks like you got some great walks in!
Croatia is just amazing, I hope you get there soon!
They look so serene and beautiful, I would never have known about all the lakes in Croatia all I ever see is the coastline!
It’s amazing, and Zagreb really surprised us too!
We absolutely loved the Plitvice Lakes but I had no idea that the area was so caught up in the war – I guess I thought it has escaped. So interesting!
Me too, I had no idea. I suppose it is really close to the Bosnian border though. It was only when I was trying to find out what the abandoned building was that I started reading about how the war had affected the area. Very sad to think of such a beautiful place, so full of nature, being a war zone.
That’s gorgeous! I’ve seen quite a few pics before but you’ve definitely made me want to go!
I think I’d assumed that the pics I’d seen were somehow enhanced and that it’d be lovely but not quite as good as the professional pictures. But it really does look like that!
Oh my god, I have officially fallen in love with your post! WHAT A PLACE! This is heaven indeed! And your pictures are awesome, it looks less crowded that on other blog posts I have seen, they are really good. I guess one should hit the low season. These waterfalls are simply magical. I have forever been obsessed with waterfalls (Iceland, Niagara, Iguaçu…) and I think I must see those ones! Pinning your post all over Pinterest not to forget 😉
It was pretty crowded later in the afternoon, there was a bit of shuffling in line along the boardwalks. They’re also really narrow so you can’t get past people taking pics/selfies. I think the key is to avoid weekends and public holidays, and we made sure we were on one of the first buses of the day up to the start of the trail. I love a waterfall too, I grew up near High Force in the UK which is a pretty special place 🙂
Love these pictures. Had no idea Croatia looked like this. Another thing going on the bucket list. Thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you! Croatia is probably my favourite country in Europe, it’s just gorgeous.
This looks absolutely stunning! A beautiful day trip and the view from your hotel looked like it was a wonderful place to relax as well. I’ve only visited Dubrovnik briefly but now I realise that I need to book a trip back to Croatia as it looks like there is so much more to explore!
Definitely! There is so much to see in Croatia!
It most certainly is on my wish list!! And I hope to visit on my next Euro trip! I had no idea there was accommodation on site, that would be amazing! And even though photos of it are everywhere you still surprised me with so many more beautiful shots!!
It was really lovely to stay on site, and not even very expensive, although with only 3 hotels on site we did have to book quite far in advance. The Hotel Plitvice is the cheapest of the three but was absolutely brilliant, the interiors are all amazing (original) mid-century modern and the views are just to die for. It’s so peaceful after the park closes too.
seems like a right adventure!